Monday, May 2, 2011

Spring Break: 3 weeks backpacking Luzon

B and I diving around San Miguel Island, PI
The last 3 weeks Bonita, Rachal, and I set off on a little backpacking trip across Catanduanes (the island east of Luzon) and Luzon (the PI’s main island where I live).  I must say I am so happy to have the opportunity to see more of the Philippines, especially since this year has been a pretty crappy experience for me.  The PI as a whole is gorgeous (with the exception of Manila and Angeles City) and I never once felt like I was in danger.  We made friends and saw amazing sites, so I hope I can keep that in my mind for the next month and a half and end this year on a high note. 

We started our trip in Donsol where Bonita and I finished our PADI Open Water Diver certification.  We did 6 dives in the reefs which were absolutely amazing.  


body of a whale shark
On our last day there, Bonita, Rachal and I swam with whale sharks.  Basically, the boat crew hunts for the whale sharks and when they spot one, you drive to it, jump in, then swim with it for as long as you can.  Luckily we had fins in addition to our snorkels, so it was relatively easy for us to stay in front of the pack and glide with the whale sharks.  I tried to stay at its head so I didn’t get whacked by its tale or a spastic person who couldn’t really swim.  Donsol was great- the people were so incredibly friendly and it was a really nice change of pace to have kids saying ‘hi’ and wanting high 5’s as opposed to the usual pointing and/or asking for money that we experience in Angeles. 

From Donsol we had a 7 hour journey to Puraran, Catanduanes where we spent the next 5 days relaxing on the beach.  We stayed at a family-operated “resort” and had the place to ourselves for the majority of the time.  It was a secluded beach with no tourists, so it was just the peace and quiet we had wanted.  

our hut in Puraran, PI
Our hut barely fit the three of us, our stuff, mosquito nets, and a fan, but it was cozy enough for us to not want to leave.  Even the bucket showers with freezing well-water became comfortable.  Bonita and I attempted to surf a few of the days but our skills (or lack there-of) were no match for the water.  The break was so far out that it took around 25 minutes to paddle out (and in) and the waves were faster, taller, and stronger than what we experienced in La Union a month and a half ago.  The waves ranged from 6-10 feet tall – needless to say I spent more time tumbling underwater than standing on my board.  Considering the water was only 5 feet deep, I think I did a pretty darn good job not smashing against the coral and rocks while the ocean took me for a ride.  All of this is happening during the low season…apparently during peak season, it’s quite common to see broken boards, bones, and spirits.  We took a couple day trips to swim in waterfalls and go cliff jumping and we played volleyball in the evenings.  A few nights we had bonfires with our new friends (nephews of the owner - they work when/where needed and served as our surf instructors/tour guides but mostly just hung out at the beach).  Alan, one of the aforementioned friends, tried to teach me how to drive his motorcycle on our last afternoon in Puraran. We learned after about 5 minutes that I drive the same way I roller skate at rinks: enjoying the ride, then slamming into the wall when I want to stop.  Sparing details, we did exactly that- coming out with a few minor scratches and bruises and a broken mirror.  Next time, I’ll learn how to use the breaks.

Puraran
We made our way back to Manila on Good Friday in hopes of catching the overnight bus to Northern Luzon, but learned that that wasn’t an option. 90% of the country shuts down on Good Friday, but in that 10% still running was a bus to Angeles City. Instead of sitting around Manila until the next evening, we decided to head an hour and a half home, unload our beach stuff, and sleep in our beds.

The next day we were off again.  We stayed in Baguio for the night- unfortunately Rachal sprained her ankle stepping off the curb, and her melodramatic state freaked out a nearby cab driver, so he called the Filipino version of 911. Once the ambulance arrived, they gave us a ride to our hostel, so her ankle saved us a little money...thanks, Rach! J

The bus ride from Baguio to Sagada was not fun.  We were stuck on one of those buses you see every-so-often in the news for tipping off cliffs or brake-malfunctions.  No air-con and windy roads leads to upset stomachs and the family sitting next to me passing the barf-bag amongst themselves.  Sick. Luckily, I was smart enough to take 3 motion-sickness pills, so the road, puking neighbors, heat, and chicken feed in front of me (stinkyyyy) did not bring me down.

Hanging Coffins, Sagada, PI
Sagada was way up in the mountains, so it was a nice escape from the unrelenting heat in we are used to.  Bonita and I met Armin, a young German who was traveling alone, so we decided to do our sight-seeing together and cut down on the costs.  We visited the burial cave, essentially a cave opening with about 100 coffins, and Sumaging Cave which is the largest cave in SE Asia.  It was a gruelingly steep and slippery 40 minute trek to the bottom where we had to go barefoot to keep from slipping.  There was a little swimming hole in the cave so B and I had a dip.  It was pitch-black and 45 degrees…about as pleasant as it sounds.  The next day B, Armin and I went on what was supposed to be an hour and a half hike to a lake that ended up being a 4 hour hike to the top of the mountain/nowhere.  The locals are quite clever to not mark paths and draw very generic maps so that you are forced to pay for guides.  Too bad we learned that lesson after the fact.  After a lunch break and siesta, we set off to see the hanging coffins (above) and an underground-river.  I thought we were going on a leisurely walk, so I wore flip-flops, only to find that it was a 2.5 hour hike.  Surprisingly, the flops only broke once, and I only had to go barefoot for one muddy field.  It was nice to be active outdoors for a few days!

Rice terraces, Banaue, PI
After Sagada we headed to Banaue.  I rode on top of the jeepney to not get carsick/have a better view and I must say that was an excellent choice!  We passed about 8 waterfalls and I had a spectacular view the entire hour and a half.  The rice terraces are breathtaking- the size of them and the science/strategy behind how they were made are amazing.

Altogether the trip was great- the only thing I would change would be to make it longer.  It was so nice to make friends and not talk about school.... and my lungs really appreciated the break from the smog I usually have to breathe.  46 more days, then stateside :D


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